SUITING A SUIT
When British Vogue announced that The Princess Of Wales Had Retired Her Midi-Dresses In Favour Of A New Look, constructed of very chic suits, it launched me on a hunt for that ultimate autumn suited suit.
Me wearing a Sezane wool suit.
Did you know? The term “suit” comes from the French term suivre. Which means “to follow”? Interpreted as the jacket follows the pants material and colour. If you appreciate the way a suit consists of two simple pieces, thank Beau Brummell. He was a mover and shaker in early 1800s English court life, befriending the prince who would later become King George IV, and by that connection change the menswear by rejecting the then popular frock coats and powdered wigs to simpler jackets and full-length trousers. Strolling down Savile Row in London, you quickly understand that even though Paris and Milan might host bigger fashion weeks, London is definitely the leading destination for suits.
Princess of Wales in suits.
Suits for women, however, had a trickier start than the court's free-spirited movement. Did you know that before 1950, women could be arrested for wearing a suit for ‘impersonating a man’? Considering today's gender freedom, I was very surprised realising that in fact, a person could technically be arrested in New York for “impersonating the wrong sex” as recently as 2011 — the remnants of a 19th century statewide law prohibiting wearing “the dress of the opposite sex.”
Marlene Dietrich in American Vogue
American Vogue’s earliest documentation of a woman wearing a trouser-suit is from September 1933, a story named Riviera Days and Nights, featuring Marlene Dietrich in a summer trouser suit. At the time this raised many eyebrows, but boldly Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo started wearing suits in public and soon the world pursued them.
Julia Roberts in Armani.
So what makes a great suit? For me, firstly it’s about the fit, but thanks to THAT picture of Julia Roberts winning THAT golden globe awards in THAT ginormous Armani suit, everything changed for me and there was only one way forward; oversized. Something that mixed with the power shine that a suit somehow encapsulates creates a nice statement. Secondary, the material is an important factor too. As always I will suggest natural materials and I opt for wool, cashmere and linen where possible. Also loving the latest by COS that is made by Ecovero which is a viscose fibre, derived from certified renewable wood sources.
Please find here my guide to autumn suits I hope can inspire you to a serious yet relaxed look.
This classic double-breasted suit jacket is made with a mix of materials including wool and made in Bulgaria.
£315
This British-style double-breasted blazer in slightly stretchy wool-blend Donegal tweed fabric featuring a lapel collar, and is a true classic staple.
£1,070
Crafted from a fluid ECOVERO™ Viscose cloth, this suite is tailored in an oversized shape and designed with flapped pockets.
£310
Made from a delicate recycled cashmere and wool gauze, this buttonless tailored suit has the softest silhouette perfect investment for an that elegant city vibe.
£2,840
The ‘Delmas’ suit, has been made in Italy from wool and cashmere-blend that’s woven with specks of color for a dimensional finish.
£3,750
Give this beautiful vintage wool suit from Miu Miu a new life from Vestiaire Collective.
£339